Japanese restaurants in China have been struggling to stay afloat amid Beijing's total ban on seafood imports from Japan, but some have found a way to keep in business by procuring the neighboring country's marine products via Hong Kong or using Chinese-sourced ingredients for their menu items.
The embargo, introduced last August in response to the release of treated radioactive water from the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear plant, has forced many Japanese restaurants in China to close their doors.
The impact of the ban has been particularly severe on high-end establishments in urban areas such as Beijing and Shanghai, which charge over 1,000 yuan ($138) per customer.
According to a wholesaler who sells fresh fish and processed products to restaurants across China, 100 out of the 2,500 Japanese eateries they worked with have closed down since the import suspension in August.
Despite the Chinese government labeling the treated Fukushima water as "nuclear-contaminated," there are still many food enthusiasts in China who seek out authentic Japanese fish.
As China continues to ban seafood imports from Japan, some restaurants have resorted to obtaining Japanese marine products through unofficial channels.
A worker at a high-end Japanese restaurant in Shanghai disclosed that seafood from Japan is making its way to mainland China via Hong Kong.
While the Hong Kong government has banned seafood imports from Fukushima and nine other prefectures following the start of the treated water release, shipments from other regions in Japan are still ongoing.
According to the insider, some dealers are taking advantage of the situation by transporting Japanese seafood from Hong Kong to nearby Shenzhen in Guangdong Province by boat, and selling it at inflated prices.
When placing orders, customers can even specify their desired origin for the products they purchase, such as Nemuro in Hokkaido for sea urchins and Oma in Aomori Prefecture for tuna, the insider said.
However, this procurement method is risky, with dealers facing potential penalties, while the quality and arrival times of products are often unreliable.
Takashi Ito, a 74-year-old manager of a Japanese restaurant named "Merase" in Shanghai, has been working with local fishermen and brokers to teach them about popular fish species in Japanese cuisine, as well as proper storage methods for them.
He has also developed a system where freshly caught fish are photographed and shared on social media, allowing restaurants to place orders for delivery in one or two days. Ito plans to introduce this system to sushi restaurants in China to jointly weather the challenges posed by the seafood import ban.
Moving forward, Ito said he is determined to "preserve the Japanese taste with Chinese fish." While sales at Merase have dropped to 70 percent of pre-ban levels, he is hopeful that by working together, the Japanese restaurant industry in China can overcome this difficult period.
