Solemn prayers resound deep in the mountains of Wakayama. At the top of Mount Koya, an isolated Buddhist retreat has been in quiet operation since it was established in the 9th century by Kobo-Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism and an important religious figure in Japan.
Shielded by ancient cedar forests and literally elevated above the worries of modern society, Koyasan remains a Buddhist sanctuary devoted to serious study and contemplation—while also inviting complete novices to experience an overnight stay and morning prayer at one of its elegant temples.
Danjo Garan was the original temple complex built by Kobo-Daishi when he returned from studying esoteric Buddhism in China. As you walk around, you’ll spot assemblies of robed monks diligently weaving through the multiple halls and pagodas. In nearby Kongobuji, you can check out the largest rock garden in Japan.
Head east, bow before crossing the Ichinohashi Bridge, and you’ll enter sacred Okunoin cemetery. Kobo-Daishi’s mausoleum is located deep in the forest, and to reach it you’ll have to cross two kilometers of the 300,000 tombstones of people who wished to receive salvation from the spiritual leader in death.
The cool mountain forest is often engulfed by mist, lending a strange and mystical atmosphere to the gravestones, Jizo statues, and stone lanterns lining the path, all of it overgrown with moss.
It’s believed that Kobo-Daishi is not dead, but resting in his mausoleum in a state of eternal meditation, awaiting the arrival of the Buddha of the Future. The Torodo (Hall of Lamps) in front of it is a breathtakingly worshipful place, filled with lanterns that are kept eternally lit. The surrounding area is hushed and peaceful, and a wonderful place to quietly wander through.
Temples have proliferated in this holy town, and over 50 of them offer overnight accommodation to visitors. Cozy and private, the rooms are closer in style to a minimalist ryokanthan the austerity one might expect from a monk’s life. They’re a great opportunity to try shojin ryori—vegetarian temple cuisine—as well as a meditative (very) early morning prayer session led by the monks. Just ask them if you can join the night before and they will set aside a place for you.
