ETX Studio met chef Hélène Darroze on the Costa Smeralda, the latest ship in the Costa Cruises fleet. At ease on land as she is at sea, the chef, who has restaurants in London, Paris and Moscow, talks about her quest for excellence, sharing and discovery with a menu that has a surprisingly local flavor for a cruise ship restaurant.
As a storm brews outside -- and the next day sees heavy rain drench Marseille in 15 cm of water -- on board the Costa Smeralda cruise ship, the latest addition to the Costa Cruises fleet, the weather is always just fine. Making our way past the slot machines and the showrooms, we arrive at Archipelago. The restaurant's atmosphere is more intimate than the ship's other food outlets. Conceived as a gastronomic haven, an island aboard the liner, diners can enjoy dishes cooked with local ingredients from the ship's various destinations. And it has everything you'd expect of an upscale restaurant, from cozy furniture to impeccable service. For €55 (about $64), diners can choose between the menus of three chefs: France's Hélène Darroze, Italian chef Bruno Barbieri and the Spanish chef Ángel León. Each has been given carte blanche to concoct a menu that honors the ports of call visited. We caught up with the French chef to find out more.
You have chosen to focus on local food for your dishes on board this ship. Isn't that a bit contradictory for a vessel that sails from port to port?
Yes, it's true that it may seem a bit contradictory. But what we wanted to do was highlight the gastronomic culture of each of the ports of call, with local products. For me, this is an ideal: we are on the gourmet side of discovery and excursion.
World's best female chef, three Michelin stars, and now a restaurant at sea. What's next: a restaurant for space tourists?
(Laughs) I don't know what the limit is. When projects are attractive and values are shared, I'm always up for it! And so is my team. Because I'm really lucky to be surrounded by talented, passionate young people with the same energy as mine.
You're simultaneously embracing the mainstream with Top Chef, while delivering premium-quality fine dining in your Michelin starred restaurants. What does spanning this culinary divide tell us about you?
I think I'm someone who stays grounded, down to earth, approachable, on all levels and who just wants to bring people joy. That's my quest, whether it's for a TV show, dishes to deliver during lockdown or on a boat.
What's more stressful: getting a third Michelin star or cooking for the Costa Smeralda?
Honestly, I don't put any stress on myself. It's true that I got a third star, but it was never an extra pressure. And I cook in that establishment as I do here, with the same values, the same objectives, the same search for good local products and honest cooking. As always, I will be giving my best!
This interview has been translated from French.
