Aizu Wakamatsu, the City of Samurai
Aizu Wakamatsu is located about three hours north of Tokyo, in Fukushima Prefecture, and is best known as the final stronghold of samurai warriors during the upheaval of the Meiji Restoration (1868).
Even today, you can feel the samurai spirit in the lovingly preserved landmarks, beautiful historical buildings, and delicious local recipes passed down for generations.
What's more, Aizu offers visitors unique opportunities to experience authentic samurai training and customs, from traditional Japanese archery to Zen meditation and more! Visitors can also enjoy the beautiful scenery that changes with the seasons while exploring historical places like Mt. Iimori.
We introduce seven places that shouldn't be missed on a samurai-themed trip to the Aizu region, along with excellent places to stay and local cuisine.
Getting to Aizu Wakamatsu
Getting to Aizu Wakamatsu from Tokyo is easy; ride the Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama Station (1 hour and 20 minutes from Tokyo Station), then transfer to the Ban-etsu West line for another 1-hour ride to Aizu Wakamatsu Station.
You'll usually have to wait a few minutes for the connecting train to Aizu Wakamatsu, so the total journey takes about 3 hours.
1. Tsurugajo Castle: A True Historical Fortress
Once you arrive in Aizu, be sure to stop first at Tsurugajo Castle!
Tsurugajo Castle was built more than 600 years ago, and the original stone base and fortifications still stand today.
Inside the castle keep, you'll be treated to a journey through the history and climactic battles that took place here. From the top floor, you'll experience a panoramic view of the spectacular castle gardens and surrounding mountains.
Tsurugajo Castle hosts several seasonal events, including an evening light-up during the spring cherry blossom and fall foliage seasons—don’t miss out!
2. Nisshinkan: Learn to be a Samurai
Once you've seen some of Aizu's history at Tsuruga Castle, we recommend visiting Nisshinkan. This samurai school is the perfect place to experience samurai history and culture firsthand. Nisshinkan was constructed in 1803, and more than 1,000 students attended the clan school at its peak.
It was considered the most prestigious institution of its kind in Japan. Young samurai traveled here from across Japan to study the classics of Chinese literature and history, etiquette, martial arts, and more.
Lifelike classroom recreations give visitors a captivating view into the lives of these young samurai, and a variety of workshops and activities let you experience samurai life firsthand! When we visited, we tried kyudo (traditional Japanese archery).
Other activities include tea ceremony and traditional crafts such as ceramics painting. Reservations are required, and can be made through Nisshinkan's website (Japanese) or with the help of a local tour agency.
3. Tsutsumi Production: The Descendants of Swordsmiths
Aizu Wakamatsu isn't only home to historical buildings like Tsurugajo Castle and Nisshinkan; many aspects of its samurai heritage are reflected in the businesses still operating there today.
Tsutsumi Production is a contemporary workshop that specializes in producing gardening equipment. However, the company traces its lineage back to Aizu's legendary swordsmithing tradition. In fact, the shift in the company’s focus didn't occur until the late 19th century, when samurai were forbidden to carry swords.
Thanks to arrangements with a local guide, we had a unique opportunity to tour the Tsutsumi Production workshop.
Visitors who make special arrangements with a tour organizer can don traditional Japanese blacksmith robes and try their hand at hammering and shaping hot iron. You can make your very own letter opener!
4. Sazaedo Temple: Enjoy Phenomenal Views
Another destination that shouldn't be missed in Aizu is Sazaedo Temple, a unique architectural masterpiece built over 200 years ago.
The structure features a double-helix of spiral stairs, allowing visitors to take different paths going up and down!
Sazaedo Temple sits on Mt. Iimori, a hill overlooking Aizu Wakamatsu and the surrounding mountains. Mt. Iimori offers spectacular views! You can take beautiful pictures of the city and Tsurugajo Castle.
5. Matsudaira Clan Monuments: History and a Walk in the Woods
In 1657, the first feudal lord of Aizu established a large burial plot and shrine on a lightly wooded hillside. When he died, a large pillar engraved with the biographical details of his reign was erected on his gravesite.
Each subsequent lord of Aizu had a similar pillar constructed and placed on his grave after his death. Today, the Matsudaira Clan Monuments are a cultural heritage site that attracts visitors from all over Japan.
Whether you're hoping to see more of Aizu's samurai heritage or looking for a pleasant place to hike in the woods, the Matsudaira Clan Monuments are a great place to spend a morning in Aizu Wakamatsu.
6. Tenneiji Temple: Experience Zen Meditation
A short walk from the Matsudaira Clan Monuments, you'll find Tenneiji Temple. Its location atop a steep hill offers fresh air and a calm atmosphere that lends the main hall a sense of peace and stillness.
Tenneiji Temple offers several Zen meditation classes, including a 40-minute lesson in seated meditation (*In order to take part in a Zen meditation experience, please inquire in advance by phone). As you’re surrounded by the silent temple hall and the spicy, floral scent of Buddhist incense, it's easy to relax and truly take in the experience.
7. Tonokuchihara Former Battlefield and Mt. Iimori: The Legacy of the Byakkotai
The Meiji Restoration of 1868 marked the end of the samurai era and the beginning of Japan's modernization under the rule of a new government. This shift was not at all smooth--there were several conflicts between the former samurai troops and the army of the new government. These conflicts, known as the Boshin War, lasted from 1868 through 1869.
During the Boshin War, the Aizu clan fought along with the former shogunal troops against the new government. A group of young samurai (15 to 17 years old) known as the Byakkotai also took part in the battle of Tonokuchihara.
Cornered by the enemy, the young samurai escaped through the Tonokuchi Canal, a 150-meter underground water discharge tunnel, and hid on Mt. Iimori. They eventually committed suicide here.
The path connecting the area around Juroku Bridge and the Tonokuchihara Former Battlefield is a historical location that played an important role in deciding the odds of the battle. This path is currently a walking trail. Halfway up Mt. Iimori, you can find the graves of the Byakkotai who lost their lives on this spot.
Excellent Food and Sake! Aizu Wakamatsu Cuisine
Takino Wappameshi: Exquisite Aizu Cuisine
Craving lunch? Stop by Takino Wappameshi!
This traditionally-styled restaurant offers a number of regional specialties, including a unique snack: tempura fried manju buns.
The light batter gives these soft buns, which are filled with sweet red beans, a crispy outside, tender inside, and pleasant warmth. They're Aizu's traditional take on fresh jelly donuts!
Aizu Ramen Uende: Enjoy a Bowl of Rich Local Ramen
Ramen lovers should not miss Aizu Ramen Uende, a famous local shop established in 1972. Do try the traditional chuka soba, or the rich-tasting Aizu Yamashio Ramen that uses salt produced locally.
Suehiro Brewery: A Cherished Tradition of Sake Brewing
Swords and samurai aren't the only things for which Aizu is famous; it’s also home to some of the best sake breweries in Japan. Suehiro Brewery was established more than 150 years ago, and has been a local favorite ever since.
The brewery also offers tours, giving guests the chance to see the century-old presses and brewing equipment on display. If you're a sake fan, you're sure to enjoy this peek into the history of the delicious drink.
After the tour, drop by the brewery's shop for a sake tasting, and be sure to pick up some delicious sake to take home!
Staying Overnight in Aizu: Two Recommended Inns
Sensational Japanese Cuisine! Ryori Ryokan Tagoto
With so much to experience in Aizu Wakamatsu, it's best to plan a two or even three-day trip. There are plenty of charming places to stay, but we recommend Ryori Ryokan Tagoto.
This Japanese inn is a favorite with locals and visitors alike, and is renowned for its delicious meals. The beautiful architecture and hearty food is sure to have you feeling the samurai spirit!
Kutsurogijuku Chiyotaki: A Mountain Hot Spring Resort
If you decide to stay a second night in Aizu, we recommend visiting a hot spring resort. Aizu Wakamatsu is home to a number of renowned onsen; we recommend Kutsurogijuku Chiyotaki, a sprawling resort tucked into the mountains.
Chiyotaki is best known for its open air baths with rooftop views that let visitors enjoy the fresh mountain air while seeing Aizu's amazing nature from a new and unique perspective.
Experience the True History and Culture of the Samurai
Given its history as the last samurai stronghold in Japan, it's no wonder the spirit and heritage of these legendary warriors can still be seen in Aizu Wakamatsu today.
If you're curious about authentic samurai culture, and want to experience it for yourself, be sure to visit Aizu Wakamatsu!
